17-19 Pottingers Entry, Belfast BT1 4DT
In the early years of the 19th century, when the population of Belfast was only around 50,000, many old inns were discreetly tucked away in entries, or old lanes, adjacent to High Street. One of these romantic old lanes, which runs between Ann Street and High Street, is Pottinger’s Entry (probably looking better today than it ever looked in its long history). From High Street the Entry is marked by a new, magnificent, high wrought iron arch, while from Ann Street an elaborate small ‘Victorian stucco’ arch bids you welcome to the Morning Star, a matter of yards away, and easily identified by the superb Victorian sign hanging from a grandly exuberant iron bracket jutting out from the corner of the bar. Have a good look at it, for it is certainly one of the finest examples of its type to be found anywhere in Ireland. Another great rarity is the winged Lion of St. Mark, sitting proudly right on the top corner of this impressive green and gold bar frontage.
The Morning Star, like so many other pubs scattered throughout our province, is situated on a corner, as if to trap the unwary drinker coming and going. Needless to say, this bar is a listed building, and can trace its history back to at least 1810, when it was mentioned in the Belfast Newsletter that year as being one of the terminals for the Belfast to Dublin Mail Coach. It was a favourite haunt of the literati during the 19th century, and since then it has been a haven of rest to the population of a young, growing city.
I’m pleased to report that the interior here completely lives up to the delightful exterior . . . a happy harmony that isn’t all that common in life. Two years ago, the bar was completely restyled and refurbished by the previous owner, Brendan Boylan, and it’s wonderful to see that the owner and the interior designers, Ferguson and Wheeler, were not tempted into changing into a modern pub.
What they simply did was to connect a genuine old interior into a pastiche of an old interior, seemingly to everyone’s declared satisfaction. The original solid mahogany counter with its wooden partitions, creating ‘islands’ in a sea of faces, is still there, as well as the old terrazzo floor. I liked the new touch of the exceptionally large mirror covering the entire back wall of the public bar, which gives the illusion of greater depth. Seamus McAlister, the new owner, drew my attention to the large snug with colourful pictures by local artist Joe O’Kane, and high up on shelves around the bar are to be found a selection of old wooden spirit cases. Talking about spirits, if you look closely, you will note the back of the serving part of the bar is completely devoid of optics, which can be an eyesore, and can ruin so many of our nice bars. Seamus is a mine of information. He was telling me that the watchmakers a few yards from the entrance to the bar used to be a brothel some 25 years ago, and is still remembered by some of the locals!
There is a nice, attractive lounge upstairs, but to be truthful, I’m more at home downstairs. This is a little gem of a pub, where even a perfect stranger like myself feels at home. Its clientele is drawn from all walks of life, from dock workers, students, to businessmen in their striped suits.
The Morning Star is a must for anyone anxious to see a living ‘museum piece’ of old Belfast.